The coast, after the parks

Choosing a coast

Which side of Unguja you stay on matters more than most people realise. The north around Nungwi and Kendwa has the widest beaches and the least tidal variation, so you can swim at any hour. The east coast is beautiful and much quieter, but the tide goes a long way out and seaweed farming is part of the landscape. The south-west is closest to Stone Town and good for dolphins and Jozani forest.

What people actually do

• A guided walk through Stone Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and genuinely rewards a guide.
• A spice tour, explaining cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and black pepper, all of which shaped the island’s history.
• A Swahili cooking class, one of the better half-days available anywhere in the country.
• A dhow cruise at sunset, usually from the north coast.
• Snorkelling or diving at Mnemba atoll, or on the reefs off Pemba.
• Jozani Chwaka Bay forest, home to the endemic Zanzibar red colobus.
• The Prison Island giant tortoises, and the sandbanks that appear at low tide.

When to go

June to October is dry and breezy and the most reliable. December to February is hot, calm and popular. The long rains in April and May hit the coast hardest, and some hotels reduce operations. November brings shorter, lighter rain.

How long to allow

Three nights is enough to unwind after a safari. Five gives you Stone Town and the beach without rushing either. Adding Pemba is worth a further three nights, since the flight and transfers eat into a shorter stay.

Getting there

Short flights connect Zanzibar with Arusha, Dar es Salaam and several Serengeti airstrips, which is why it combines so easily with a mainland safari. Ferries run from Dar es Salaam.

A few courtesies

Zanzibar is a predominantly Muslim community. Beachwear is fine on the beach and at your hotel, but covering shoulders and knees in Stone Town and in villages is appreciated and costs you nothing. During Ramadan, eating and drinking discreetly in public is a kindness.

Three quite different places

• Stone Town. A UNESCO World Heritage site built on centuries of trade between Africa, Arabia, Persia and Europe. Spice tours, Swahili cooking, and the best food on the island.
• Nungwi and Kendwa. The north coast, where the beaches are widest and swimming is least affected by the tide. Dhow sunset cruises leave from here.
• Pemba Island. Far less visited than Unguja. Known for its reefs, for Ngezi Forest, and for the ruins at Mkama Ndume.

Getting there

Zanzibar is a short flight from Arusha or directly from an airstrip in the Serengeti, which is why it combines so easily with a safari. Most people allow three to five nights.